May 18, 2011 -- Yogyakarta

DATE: Wednesday, May 18, 2011

LOCATION: Yogyakarta

AUTHOR: Sandy Hartley

After another wonderful, Indonesian breakfast (bubur sumsum-a hot cereal made with rice flour) we met all 22 ambassadors at the FF office.

Our first stop was to observe the making of wayang kulit, leather puppets. There we got to see the workers making the puppets plus a show, complete with Indonesian music.

Shadow view of shadow Puppets

Frontal view of shadow puppets.

On the way to our second stop we were able to take pictures of a Chinese cemetery and the Mt. Merapi damaged areas. We arrived at Mayor Hery Zudianto's office where we were welcomed by his assistant, given more food and Nancy and Dr. Adam had a chance to exchange official Friendship Force greetings.

Area devastated by the November, 2010 eruption of Mt. Merapi.

The highlight of the day was the Borobudur Buddhist temple. It is the largest temple in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It has undergone renovation in recent years to preserve it as a place to meditate.

Borobudur Temple

Roger & JoAnn near the top of Borobudur Temple

We ended this day with a wonderful meal with our host family. All nine were able to join us as we gave thanks to them for a wonderful home stay.

May 19, 2011 -- Yogyakarta

DATE: Thursday, May 19, 2011

LOCATION: Yogyakarta

AUTHOR: Elaine Henrich

As I have for the past two weeks I had to heat water for my “shower”. Then I pour about one inch of the boiling water in a small pot, fill the rest of the pot with cold water and then pour over my head to wet my hair to shampoo. Then repeat the water procedure to rinse off and to wash the rest of my body. It’s amazing how little water can be used to get clean.

Breakfast is the usual fried egg, but after our first day with our host, we were able to buy wheat bread and a jar of peanut butter, so we had this for breakfast every morning instead of the usual fried rice.

Our tour today took us to Mt. Merapi, where we stopped at a damaged bridge to take a picture of the mountain and the lava flows. We then continued to the base of the mountain where we walked around for about half an hour. While most of the inhabitants had been displaced, people were beginning to rebuild homes and the vendors had set up their stalls. Much of the landscape consisted of the tree trunks that had been defoliated and broken.



Mt. Merapi destruction zone -- in the foreground is the rubble of
a home; the structure behind the rubble is the new house. Interesting
to note that they were using the same flor tile in the new house that
could be seen in the rubble from the destroyed home.



One vendor was making honey, by pouring the honey from the honeycomb through a rag over a soda bottle - so much for sterile filtering. Another vendor was the local “gas station” which consisted of one liter bottles of gasoline, which is probably all the gas you need to fill the tank of your motor scooter. I also bought a picture index that showed the various stages of the eruption of the volcano in all its fiery glory.



Typical Gas Station



We then stopped in the temporary housing village that had been set up by the Indonesian government for the people displaced by the volcano eruption. During the 2004 Orlando hurricanes we had many homes with blue tarp roofs, but this village was built with blue tarp walls and tin roofs. Each family had been given a generator so they had electricity and one of the “homes” we viewed had their TV playing. Since I volunteer for the American Red Cross, I was impressed by the blue barrels labeled PMI, which stood for the Indonesian Red Cross. Each family was given a barrel filled with supplies to re-establish their daily lives. There was also a white box labeled PMI which was filled with supplies for children under five.

Temporary shelter for victims of the Mt. Merapi eruption.

There was an easel sheet of paper hanging on a wall which listed the names of all the families in this make-shift village. They were categorized in groups of 10 families sharing 3 cows to be used for the plowing of their rice fields.

We then went to Kwuang Village where we were met by the townsfolk. We first made a presentation of three sewing machines that we donated. This was a symbolic gesture as we are actually donating ten sewing machines. The sewing machines will be used to put people back to work. We were served a snack before walking to the fish ponds to seed the ponds with the fish that we were donating. To the amazement of all of us, Roger Gatlin put one of the fish in his mouth as if he was going to swallow it. It still amazes all of us that he never got sick from this.



Phil stocking the fish pond.



We then continued to the rice fields where many of the FFI club members beat the rice off the stalks/reeds.

Another walk up the hill to the area where we planted the trees we had donated. These trees were to replace the trees that had been destroyed by the eruption of Mt. Merapi. Each FFI person had a placard with their name on it next to the hole where they were supposed to plant their tree. After the tree planting, we went back to the main house for lunch.

On the way back to the FF office where we met every morning, we stopped at an herbal factory. We found that this was owned by one of the local FF club members and I guess they were hoping that we would buy some of their herbs. The most amazing thing about this factory was that they glued each box together by hand. Talk about a small operation.

Since this was the last evening available to take our hosts to dinner, we went to the Royal Garden restaurant. Marcia and I ordered “stir fry chicken”, but what we got looked more like baked chicken. So we asked for another chicken dish that we thought would be cooked in a lemon sauce, instead we got something covered in honey and sesame seeds. So even though we didn’t get what we thought we were ordering, the food was good and the company great.

Our host gave us some farewell gifts-a batik shawl, a painted mask, a batik T-shirt and some replicas of Borobodur and Prambanan. A perfect ending to a wonderful week.

May 20, 2011 -- Yogyakarta

DATE: Friday, May 20, 2011

LOCATION: Yogyakarta

AUTHOR: Mary Gayle and Dick Van Ingen

We arrived at 7:50 AM at the Friendship Force Office in Jogyakarta, leaving on our bus at 8:10AM. Topic of discussion: We had not seen a traffic accident or banged up cars in the last two weeks in spite of heavy rush-hour traffic. With us today was Sri Ndhadhari, Maria's host, whose name means "beautiful full moon." We learned there are seventeen districts in Bandung while Jogykarta has only five. There are nineteen high schools. School is free for grades 1-9 except for the International Standard Schools which cost from $175,000 - $300,000 rupiah per month for 10-12 months, depending on the school. The school day is from 7:00 AM - 1:00 PM through grade twelve. English is the first foreign language with the next most studied being Japanese and German.

In Klaten we visited the Gondang Sugar Factory, built in the 19th century, where sugar is processed from May through September. The plant is steam operated and was down for maintenance during our visit. We saw the huge chunks of wood that are used to fire the engines. In the tropics, wood tends to have no visible grain since there are no changes in season to promote the growth rings we are so familiar with. We rode the tourist train around the factory property and had the feeling we were the first to visit for quite a while since they had to move some empty train cars out of our way and later a car loaded with sugar cane in order for us to get by. In the background were the cane fields, and in the foreground hundreds of train cars loaded with cut cane ready to move to the plant for processing. We watched train cars being automatically loaded. It was very interesting to see the volume of cane in the loading area alone which would later be transported to the nearby factory.

Before we started the tour, we had yummy snacks and music in the headquarters building which is now a high-end hotel named the Gongdang Winangoen Home Stay. This solidly-built Dutch building had boldly-designed tile floors, a koi pond in the garden, a red flamboyant (it's real name) tree in bloom, and a fountain that was completely covered in Java Moss (seemed appropriate.) There were Vanda orchids and Microsorium steerii ferns in an old banyan tree out front.



The volume of sugar produced was staggering!



Of course, we also visited the Museum Gula (means sugar) which opened in 1982. In the past, Indonesia was the #2 exporter of sugar but is now the #2 importer with most of its sugar coming from Cuba. (There is currently a 6% to 9% recovery of sugar from the cane by weight whereas it used to be 15%.)  We learned that in 1950, rice became the main crop since it was worth more money per hectare than cane. At present there are eight sugar mills still operating. Sugar cane has a 7-9 month growing season. The plant is cut five times before the field is burned and the crop rotated.  There was an old-style sugar press on display in the yard as well as some old locomotives and huge gears.

In a recreation area on the same property was a fish spa where 7 people from our group let small fish nibble their feet. Sandy Hartley and Dick Van Ingen stayed with the fish while most went on to a tour of the old mill. At noon we all converged back at the hotel for lunch and more relaxing music with seating on the broad, cool porch. 

The cleanest feet in Indonesia :)

On the way home, we stopped at the Garuda Airline office so Nancy could check on our departure tickets, and at 7:00 PM we all descended on the Burham's lovely home, where Roger & JoAnn Gatlin were being hosted, for our farewell party. Yet another wonderful assortment of Indonesian delicacies, lots of pictures, entertainment by the Simba-Negari middle-school girls who had entertained us the day we visited their school, and some of our group provided a demo of the Virginia Reel, inviting Indonesians to join in. We were presented with individual certificates for having participated in the exchange, received numerous small gifts, said our teary good byes, and went home with our hosts to pack for departure. 

May 21, 2011 -- Yogyakarta to Ubud

DATE: Saturday, May 21, 2011

LOCATION: Yogyakarta on Java to Ubud on Bali

AUTHORS: Leyla Akgerman & Maria Bukur

Early flight back to Denpasar. Checking in at Yogyakarta was easy, thanks to Nancy, who got our boarding passes the day before our departure.

We were able to check in early at hotel Tjampuhan in Ubud. The setting of the hotel was very nice, with lots of greenery and beautiful swimming pools and spa.



One of the ponds at Tjampuhan Resort & Spa



After settling in a group of us went for lunch at Ibu Oka for Babi Guling, crispy roasted pork with spices Balinese style. It was quite an experience to sit comfortably on the floor, but we managed and enjoyed eating this Balinese specialty.



Great food -- but, crippled legs by the time
we were finished eating :)



To digest our lunch we strolled down town Ubud, a nice artsy community -- lots of tourists and gift shops. Back at the Tjampuhan hotel we were able to catch up with e-mail and communicate with family at home.

We finished the evening by the pool with a glass of Balinese red wine.



One of the pools at Tjampuhan



Another beautiful day in paradise.

May 22, 2011 -- Bali

DATE: Sunday, May 22, 2011

LOCATION: Bali

AUTHOR: Judi Reid

May 22 found us leaving the beautiful Tjampuhan Resort & Spa at 9:15 AM to board our trusty Trikayana Transport bus for our first discovery day in Bali.  After driving through the countryside for a while I discovered several things: one, the scenery of rice fields, villages, people walking and riding bikes, working with the rice in the various cycles of rice planting to harvesting all are beautiful. AND two, that the roads are not conducive to siting in the back seat of the bus.  At times it seemed like a roller coaster....fortunately, many shared in this fun. 

First stop Batuan, where we doned sarongs and went through both the first and second gates to visit one of the village temples, Puseh Temple, which was built in the 10th century.  We learned of the importance of incense and the offerings of fruit and flowers in the many ceremonies regularly held at the temple.



Puseh Temple





 

Next in the village of Mas we visited at the studio of the famous wood carver Made Puja.  We viewed several men working on carving pieces and toured Pujas' extensive Galleries.  Several FF members purchased items, bringing smiles to Puja and to Win, which is short for Windra, our very fine tour guide.

Continuing onward and upward, to the Bantur Volcano we next stopped at  Gunung Kawi Royal Monument, site of the Royal Tombs. I am sure that this temple, of what seemed like a thousand steps down and of necessity back up, was memorable but of personal necessity this reporter stayed top-side and did some bargaining with the many delighted shopkeepers. It’s reported, by one of the folks who made the entire trip, that there were only 600+ steps, but who’s counting!?



Gunung Kawi Royal Monument



We then continued our bus ride up into the mountains to a magnificent view point where we looked down and across to Batur Volcano and Lake. There, at Restaurant Grand Puncak Sari, with its open windows offering breeze and a beautiful panorama, we were treated to a very fine buffet luncheon.



At first, we didn't realize that there was no glass.



Completely satisfied, we headed back down the hill enjoying more scenic countryside, until we accidently happened to pass people on their way to a wedding.  The women carried very tall platters of fruit stacked decoratively on their heads.  We stopped and took pictures, with permission of course. Win, our guide, promised that he would do what he could for us to visit a wedding of his friends the following day.



The great balancing act!



Our last stop, as we headed back to the hotel was at an Agro Plantation for a tour/demonstration garden and tasting of coffee, tea, vanilla, and chocolate beans. It was very interesting and delicious too.  Another great day!!  By late afternoon we were back at the hotel for independent activities.

May 23, 2011 -- Bali

DATE: Monday, May 23, 2011

LOCATION: Ubud, Bali

AUTHOR: Alan Winkler

We left the Tjampuhan Hotel and traveled through the Northwest country side of Bali to Penestanan, an artist school. The school is located in a royal temple. The front of the school was occupied by artists and galleries of paintings. The paintings were done in traditional, primitive, modern and abstract styles. The school is free to any student. It is supported by the government. In the rear of the school there were other temple sites.



Artist at work.



We then traveled to Pura Tanah Lot, a temple constructed in the 9^th century. As its name suggests, the temple is situated at the meeting-point of land (tanah) and sea (lot).The temple looks like an island sitting in the Indonesian Ocean. It should be noted that this temple is the most visited and photographed temple in Bali. At the entrance to the temple and on the walk toward the ocean, there are many shops with plenty of bargains.



Tanah Lot Temple



After taking many photos, we got back on the bus and proceeded to a family compound where a wedding was being celebrated. Along the way, we saw vast groups of ducks and were told that their eggs are used in ceremonies. We arrived at the family compound after the actual wedding ceremony, but in time to meet the bride and groom and see all the decorations and offerings. The compound was decorated in yellow and white, colors considered holy. Mounds of fruit stacked in the traditional offering style lined the wall of one of the buildings and the family temple was also decorated. We met the bride and groom, who were both 28 years old, and  dressed in beautiful traditional wedding clothes. Both looked very attractive. Some of our group toured the kitchen.



The wedding couple with offerings.



Lunch was a short distance away at the Nature Restaurant and Spas -- excellent food and scenery. We ate at tables in an open-air, sheltered area.

We then proceeded to the Mengwi Temple, a royal family temple established in 1740 and surrounded by a moat. Its towers represent the mountains, which are the residence of the gods. The temple is located on an axis connecting the mountains with the sea and is thought to ensure the harmonious circulation of water from the mountains of Bali to the rice fields, then to the sea, and back to the mountains.



Mengwi Temple



That evening, back in Ubud, Mary Jane showed us to a section of seats and tables behind Starbucks where we saw a dance performance. We then returned to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.



May 24, 2011 -- Bali

DATE: Tuesday, May 24, 2011

LOCATION: Ubud, Bali

AUTHOR: Beverly Taylor

We were all up at the crack of dawn. No hotel breakfast buffet today as we set off in the van for a 6:30 am rice field walk. After a short drive into the countryside, our guide, Wyn, led us on a two-hour walk through the beautiful vividly green rice paddies. In single file, we made our way along the packed dirt raised paths separating the fields.



Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner!



With the sun beating down on us even at this early hour, we encountered a number of interesting locals who enlivened what could have been a boring morning. We were intrigued with the lady brushing her teeth in the water irrigation system and the man taking a nude shower right in front of us in a little stream. Luckily, we found two wooden sheds which served as a shelter for our box breakfast break.

Hot and thirsty, we arrived at a little town with a wonderful market where we could browse through the sometimes-pungent vegetable and meat markets.



The Market -- Flowers used to make offerings.



Wyn's childhood home was nearby. He invited us all over to the family compound to see a typical Balinese home. They usually consist of a series of one-story dwellings where family members live separately but eat together. They share resources and their hole-in-the-floor outdoor toilets. They offered us fresh milk from a coconut with a straw.

Back for a rest at the hotel by 1:00 am, we looked forward to our specially arranged tea with Princess Atun at the Royal Palace. While many of the men in our group had visions of a shapely Polynesian maiden, our Princess turned out to be 65 years old! She was very gracious and had been educated in the U.S. The Palace was yet again a compound of separate buildings in the Balinese style. These were fancier with lots of beautiful tiles, gold decorations and lovely gardens. The Princess's stepmother had just died and the royal family was in mourning. So there were quite a few dignitaries visiting the day we were there. Our group presented her with a Mickey Mouse snow globe that she seemed to be pleased with. After tea and a delightful conversation, Princess Atun invited us into another area for a buffet lunch.



Ibu Atun with us at the Royal Palace.



Tonight's entertainment was a Kecak presentation. Kecak is a most unique Balinese dance which is not accompanied by any orchestra, but by a choir of many men. They recant the tale of Rama and Sita, a storyline which we encountered a number of times throughout our Indonesian stay. Also included was a traditional number with two little girls who are brought out of a trance while dancing and a little boy on a wooden horse that prances around and through a huge bonfire made from coconut husks.



Kecak Dance